One doesn’t have to fully understand Zen-Buddhism. There are probably only a few who really do and who have gotten to the source of it, after years and years of contemplation and meditation and intensive consideration. But the complete and full understanding of Zen might not be even necessary; maybe it is enough to get involved with Zen in some way and let oneself be guided by its ideas and statements. Even that is not as simple as it may sound at first, after all it was Japanese Zen-Master Ikkyū Sōjun who once told a seeker: “I really would like to offer at least something, but all we have in Zen is absolute nothingness.”
Nothingness certainly doesn’t sound like much, but then again it can be everything. When taking a trip to Yinshan Talin, the “Pagoda Forrest at the Silver Mountain”, just a few kilometers next to the famous 13 Ming Tombs north of Beijing, one can get a clue of what “absolute nothingness” can be and how it feels like. As a matter of fact, pretty good.
Almost thousand years ago, this area was a centre of Chan-Buddhismus. The Chinese expression „chan“ (禅) derives from the Sanskrit „Dhyana”, which then became the Chinese “chan’na” (禅那) and which is known today as „Zen”, meaning „state of meditative contemplation”. So the origin of the name already includes the principal element of Zen-Buddhismus: meditation.
And that`s exactly what Yinshan Talin north of central Beijing is perfect for. The hilly scenery is … „interrupted“ one is tempted to say… only by a few tiny villages; thujones and oaks are growing at the mountain slope, as well as berries and herbs; open nutshells are lying along a footpath, a buzzard wheels at the sky. Furthermore, the view from the top of the nearby mountain reaches a part of the Great Wall with the beautiful name “Huanghuacheng” – “Yellow Flower Wall”. Each summer, little yellow flowers blossom over there at this wild and unrestored section of the wall, hence the poetic name…
The nearby valley of Yinshan Talin, where 13 emperors of the Ming-Dynasty found their final resting place, was chosen by geomancers especially because of the harmonious charisma and perfect location according to feng shui, for example the orientation towards the cardinal direction. A simmilar example of this powerful arrangement of natural conditions can be experienced and felt at Yinshan Talin, the whole area certainly radiates tranquility and grandeur. If this is due to the scenery itself or because of the former Fahua-Tempel, to which the remaining pagodas once belonged? Difficult to say. And in the end not crucial: the symbol of Zen-Buddhism is an empty circle, with no beginning, no end; the only thing that counts is the presence, is: now. And with a religious orientation, a philosophy, that includes: „Here it is, right now. Think about it, and you miss it.“, what’s the difference in what is responsible for this feeling? The scenery or the temple built in it? Very lickely it’s because of both… A comfortable feeling, by the way, almost like an emptiness that hugs you and warmly, gently, protectingly lends you it’s support; it even seems as if one’s puls rate here at Yinshan Talin is slowing down, as if mind and soul are taking a brake and become clearer. At peace. One.
This peace and quietness was certainly decisive for choosing this hillside area to once become a center of Zen-Buddhism in Northern China. Altogether 72 temples, pagodas and stupas were built, and in the many caves of Silver Mountain, monks and Zen-masters meditated and taught desciples over the centuries. One would almost think to catch a glimpse of them, sitting there in lotus position, absorbed in thoughts, or strolling through trees and bushes in order to grant their limbs some movement. A glimpse of how they try, circling their thumbs, to grasp the moment and at the same time let it escape… And then suddenly the sound of a bell on the plattform half way to the top of the mountain sounds. The gong echoes once, twice… three times through the valley, the silence in between the sound is identically and almost like an invitation to finally give the mind some rest. “When our mind is at ease, it disappears by itself.” Another of the many sayings of Zen. Is the mind of a visitor coming from the megacity Beijing still able to deal with tranquility, to catch it, to enjoy it? Doubtable, and probably not likely. But definitely difficult.
And yet, Chan-Buddhism containes nevertheless typical Chinese influences. Elements from Daoism and Confucianism had some effect in the doctrine, before it was brought to Japan in the 12th century and reveived new characteristics as “Zen-Buddhism”.
The seven still existing 15 to 20 meters high pagodas at Yinshan Talin – five dating back to Jin-Dynastie (1125-1234) and two to Yuan-Dynastie (1279-1368) – are until today witnesses and symbols of how powerfull Buddhism once was in the region. Moreover, of the five Jin-Pagodas it is said that each contains the ashes of an influental monk or scholar: of Yixing, he taught morals; of Chan-Master Huitang as well as of monk Fojue, both military advisers. Of monk Yuantong, philanthrope; and finally the ashes of monk Xujing, who above all developed own ideas of Chan-Buddhism.
Of course visitors don’t have to be exclusevly in quest of mental clearness and enlightment in order to enjoy a visit there. Yinshan Talin is also perfect for soaking up nature or for a relaxing picnic with friends and family, in order to recover from busy city life and to catch some fresh air. To slow down and to focus again on the important things. Just like an old saying goes: „In a sense, Zen is to feel life, and not having feelings towards life.“
First published in German on german.cri.cn
